Garden shed and External Render

The waves have continued to pump until a few days ago when the swell dropped to about a metre for 3-4 days.This autumn has been so good for surf.

I'm now building the garden shed so i can finally empty out the garage to convert it into another bedroom.And in between that and surfing i've started the external rendering also.Its not very easy as i havent really (except for inside) done it before.Its an acrylic render which makes it easy to apply and seals the walls well. i'm trying to get a rough and kinda old finish on it to match the existing house,as the other walls are pretty rough .With my lack of experience ,my finish is (when i try to get it perfect!) so rough that it actually looks similar.

We had our first fire for the season last night so that means we're moving into winter.The weather is getting colder .the leaves are changing colour and starting to fall.Autumn is a very pretty time of the year here with lots of different colours and lots of still days.It also means the water will be cooling down and i have ordered my winter wetsuits.I need 2 new ones this year,A 5x4x3 with a built in hood and a top of the range 4x3,so with the

hooded suit from last year it means that i can(hopefully) always have a DRY suit ready at all times

Quik Pro 2010

The Quik pro was on here last week with some amazing waves and some amazing surfing.Brian Forward was in town on holidays,so we hooked up and watched most of the competition.Thanks to Richie Porta(now head judge of the ASP) ,who sorted us with some VIP passes,we got to watch the comp from the stand and enjoy plenty of free food and drinks and finished off each day with plenty of cold beer(also free,good on ya Rich!)The waves were most of the time,incredibly heavybarrelling waves that were only for the best .I have never seen anyone surf in conditions like here before.Normally too inaccessible from the beach without jetski assistance the conditions were absolutely jawdropping and the surfers wereimpressive in the way they attacked the thick heaving and a lot of the time dangerous waves at times up to 10feet high.Jetskis are used here quite often ,but they are usually on the outside banks and not inside and maybe only 50 - 70 metres from the waters edge.Well done to the water patroll boys for that!Owen Wright and Dan Ross had one heat where Owen broke 3 boards in 4 waves and then Dan broke one too.4 broken boards in 15 minutes.Ridiculous stuff!!!!!!!!!!!Shame for Owen coz if he hadnt broken so many boards he would've no doubt advanced.Immediately after the heat was over he had a 10ft wave that had him so deeply barrelled and for soo long it waould have been a 10 no worries.Slater, Ace Buchan,owe wright and of course the eventual winner, Mick Fanning were the standouts in a real spectacle of a competition.I was so lucky to see such an event live

Apart from that the waves have been pumping for all of september up till n ow;Great autumn conditions with another good week in front of us.The crowds left last week when the circus moved on to Portugal.Uncrowded pumping waves were everywhere last week.

Lola is 10

Lola had a 'Rock Star' birthday party for her 10th birthday last weekend.She had lots of fun with her friends here and then we all went for a treasure hunt and finished up down the lane checking out our new neighbour-A 2 week old baby donkey-So cute they all gooed and gaaed for ages .

Later on Derek and Niki dropped around to wish Lola a happy birthday too.Co and i went out with D&N on the friday night for dinner to a sushi bar and then onto a cocktail bar to finnish off with ,A fun night was had by all .

The waves have been pumping for the last 2weeks with some very solid waves provided by the hurricanes in America.Warnings are in place for a busy H season this year which is great for us coz we get the long range effects with long period swell of up to 20 seconds at tmes.Solid 'straight ,thick lines which give us some epic conditions!!!Watch this Space!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Back to school

8 weeks is a long break.Lots of beach,surfing, sleeping in and doing nothing.Now get back to school!!!!!
There are still lots of people around and lots of surfers,so the water has been busy, but theres been plenty of waves and this week has returned to the way i like it with waves everyday.I havent been working much for Jez,just keeping busy around the house.But he wants me to do a few things for him now so thats good too.Its good to be surfing everday again ,i was going crazy thru August with the lack of waves.My shoulder is sill not too good but it seems to be the work that flares it up more than the surfing.Lots of ice packs and massage and some (lots)homeopathic painkillers keep it bearable .This morning Jez and i had some nice clean 4-5 ft lefts as the sun was rising to a magnificent autumn morning.Tomorrow will b the day with an expected 6 ft at 15 seconds.OOOHHH the season has begun
Brian Forward and his partner have arrived for a 4 week stay in Hossegor ,i caught up with them yesterday.I might have a surf with him tomorrow.Derek arrives for 2 weeks work tomorrow and Richie Porta arrive on the 24th with the pro tour as the circus hits town for a couple of weeks;Then all the travellers will follow the competion trail down to portugal.Bring it on!!!!!!!!!!!!

summer in France

Summer in France means beach ,packed beaches even on days with crappy weather,warm water with small waves and lots of tourists.The water temp is about 22-23° ,pleasant swimming temp and the waves are generally small which is a change from the strong and powerful waves and currents that make these beaches very dangerous and not really user friendly for kids or unwary, uneducated tourists that can live a long way from the beach.Drownings are not uncommon here and i am sure that i prevented what could have been a possibilty if i hadnt informed the lifesavers who unfortunately werent really watching what was going on .A guy swimming a long way from the flags was caught in a rip and i saw him struggling a long way from shore;After telling the lifesavers,one of them swam out but as the crowd watched what was going on ,others continued to swim in this rip as the other LS blew his whistle and waved to them to move, they just waved back,familys with young kids too.It amazes me to see all the warning signs in the carparks and next to the tracks but so many people take their young kids to swim in unsupervised areas;its not like Oz ,where everyone can swim.I'm amazed at how many people cant swim here.

The waves have been small for the last 2 months and i havent been surfing much .I still get in the water when we have a little pulse of swellthat may last a couple of days.But mostly I've been hanging out at the beach with Lola,swimming with her and taking her surfing in perfect little kids learning waves of not much bigger that a foot at times.She has progressed well and is catching the waves on her own now.I still need to help her as her surfboard is so big and bulky she has trouble getting it in the right position.Its big and being so big its very stable so its easy for her to get up to her feet, but also easy to catch waves too.We're going surfing this afternoon as the waves are small and low tide is at 2pm.2 days left in the holidays and its back to school on Thursday.Finally after 8 weeks

fete de Bayonne

We went to the Fete de Bayonne last sunday.We caught a train from St vincent de Tyrosse to avoid the traffic and lack of carparksfor this huge yearly fiesta.With everyone in traditional red and white, its an amazing sightin the beautifully historic city of Bayonne on the edge of two large rivers that run into one.Red wine,great food ,roving minstrels,thousnds of people ,this fiesta runs for 5 days

and attracts an enormous crowd with fun for all from heaps for the kids thru to bars every 20 metres.Very loud with lots of drums and trumpeters everywhere.I loved the makeshift urinals (as you can see in one of the photos) that are in the smaller laneways,hilarious stuff.

We met Corinnes family there about 11am and kicked right into things ,then wandered from bar to bar and onto an outdoor restaurant where we enjoyed some very good wine and some great food,very traditional with lots of foie gras and lots of duckand of course finished off with more red wine and some cheese.After that we did another bar crawl,watched some traditional dancing ,found another bar where some of the patrons picked up their guitars and sung some sensational basque songs,excellent stuff.Something that i do love about the french is that they really do guard their traditions ,and in such an old historic medieval city like Bayonne,a fiesta like that has an amazing feel ,its something that is impossible to find in Oz

Corinne ,Lola and i caught the 6 pm train back and left the rest of the family to continue their bar crawl.A very entertaining day for all.