8 weeks is a long break.Lots of beach,surfing, sleeping in and doing nothing.Now get back to school!!!!!
There are still lots of people around and lots of surfers,so the water has been busy, but theres been plenty of waves and this week has returned to the way i like it with waves everyday.I havent been working much for Jez,just keeping busy around the house.But he wants me to do a few things for him now so thats good too.Its good to be surfing everday again ,i was going crazy thru August with the lack of waves.My shoulder is sill not too good but it seems to be the work that flares it up more than the surfing.Lots of ice packs and massage and some (lots)homeopathic painkillers keep it bearable .This morning Jez and i had some nice clean 4-5 ft lefts as the sun was rising to a magnificent autumn morning.Tomorrow will b the day with an expected 6 ft at 15 seconds.OOOHHH the season has begun
Brian Forward and his partner have arrived for a 4 week stay in Hossegor ,i caught up with them yesterday.I might have a surf with him tomorrow.Derek arrives for 2 weeks work tomorrow and Richie Porta arrive on the 24th with the pro tour as the circus hits town for a couple of weeks;Then all the travellers will follow the competion trail down to portugal.Bring it on!!!!!!!!!!!!
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