Went for a surf late yesterday arvo and had one of the best sessions i've had since i've been here.Wasnt quite as big as i wanted ,chest to head high,but quality as good as i've ever seen anywhere!!!Supersucky fast barrelling peaks that were unmakable unless your were in the barrel.Couldnt help but get barrelled.There were about 20guys on the peak in front of the carpark with about 5-6 on the peak at the next carpark(about 1km up the beach).I found a bank in between the other two and had it to myself.Couldnt get out of the water it was soooo good and well and truly dark by the time i'd finished.
This has got to be the best stretch of waves that i've had since i've been here,with 8-10 sessions since the new year and 7 of them in the very good to excellent range,with few or no other surfers.It is still cold in the water but it doesnt matter when the waves are of such high quality;Its not possible to get waves like this back home.So while i am still capable of surfing waves of this calibre, i'm staying put!!!!At my age , i'm not too sure how many years i can keep up to the standard neccesary to be able to surf these waves competently.I've already slowed down ,so there may not be much time left in these quick sucky waves.Anyway ,i'll enjoy as much as i can ,while i can!!
Not happy i didnt have my camera with me yesterday as proof
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