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I checked the waves early this morning to find an epic swell, 5FT solid groundswell with a stiff offshore breeze.I took a couple of these photos and opted to wait for the lower tide as it was a bit high.I was in the middle of laying some drains and phil called me ,'Drop what youre doing its barrelling off its head!!!'.10 mins later i was looking at 6ft + solid ,well overhead,serious perfect barrells.OMG!!!!22° beautifully sunny andJust phil and i for two hours ,we both had plenty of bombs, in a sesion that was probably the solidest , roundest barrells since i've beeen here.Very long and not all makeable ,but if you had the right one it was worth copping a beating for.
I'll sleep well tonite
1 comment:
Hi Scratch
I am a mate of Greg (Dugga)Scullin from Cape Paterson Victoria. I am currently heading down the French west coast and will be passing your way soon (it is the 3rd of June and I'm in Soulac. Would be great to catch up to have a surf if your keen. My email is a.duffill@hotmail.com or my mobile is 07796874521.
cheers
Antony
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