I checked the waves early this morning to find an epic swell, 5FT solid groundswell with a stiff offshore breeze.I took a couple of these photos and opted to wait for the lower tide as it was a bit high.I was in the middle of laying some drains and phil called me ,'Drop what youre doing its barrelling off its head!!!'.10 mins later i was looking at 6ft + solid ,well overhead,serious perfect barrells.OMG!!!!22° beautifully sunny andJust phil and i for two hours ,we both had plenty of bombs, in a sesion that was probably the solidest , roundest barrells since i've beeen here.Very long and not all makeable ,but if you had the right one it was worth copping a beating for.
I'll sleep well tonite