After resolving my allergies problems in OZ,i have developed more here and every couple of weeks i'm having a pretty bad day,so I'm off to be screened next week.Not much fun with lots of sneezing and none of the medication theyve prescribed so far works
Xmas has been and gone with a big lunch here with 14 of the family.Big day with lots of food and wine.The waves have been pumping for the last 2 weeks with 3 stand out sessions.Last tuesday, a barrell fest in 4-5 ft waves,perfect clean conditions and not many surfers.I was very lucky and definitly jagged the best ones.The same bank as the quik pro was on and similar waves.Yesterday ,same spot ,a heaving solid 6 ft was not for the faint hearted.I saw some ridiculously serious and perfect waves,but wasnt as lucky as the last time;I picked off one big bomb which made it all worthwhile and a couple of smaller ones but i came in tired and feeling that age was catching up with me.Until this morning, 4-6 ft pumping and only Another aussie Darren, jez and i .A great session with some good barrels.The water is still around 14° so its not too cold and the last couple of days have been high teens ,so great weather too!
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